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Post by sublimevr4 on Oct 27, 2005 16:15:15 GMT -5
For example: Head bolts arp. Say you want 100ft lb's total. You want to do it in three steps. First step, one proper sequence at 40 ft lb's. Second step, one more round at 75 ft lb's Final torque at 100 ft lb's in proper sequence. This helps achieves a better sealing of the head gasket,a better more even load across the block,and a more accurate final torque reading. Hmmm thats how I do normal headbolts. But for the ARP bolts arent you supposed to do that but after its "100ft lbs" arent you supposed to loosen and then work you way up to 100lbs again. In order to stretch the headbolts to the right size?
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Post by 99gst_racer on Oct 27, 2005 16:36:59 GMT -5
For example: Head bolts arp. Say you want 100ft lb's total. You want to do it in three steps. First step, one proper sequence at 40 ft lb's. Second step, one more round at 75 ft lb's Final torque at 100 ft lb's in proper sequence. This helps achieves a better sealing of the head gasket,a better more even load across the block,and a more accurate final torque reading. Hmmm thats how I do normal headbolts. But for the ARP bolts arent you supposed to do that but after its "100ft lbs" arent you supposed to loosen and then work you way up to 100lbs again. In order to stretch the headbolts to the right size? Yes and No. ARP doesnt even make head bolts for the 4G63 - only head studs. And I've never heard of stretching head studs, but I have heard of stretching rod bolts. EDIT: Yup. For the head studs, ARP just recommends hand tightening the in the block and then using the 3-step torque method after the head is installed (obviously). Also, they said to re-torque them after the engine has been ran.
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Post by Green92gsx on Oct 27, 2005 17:11:54 GMT -5
I ment nuts and studs. Not Arp bolts. (brain fart) Anyway, I went beyond 100 ft lb's and never re torqued anything after it ran. Sealed fine for me.
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Post by wishihadatalon on Oct 27, 2005 18:46:59 GMT -5
For example: Head bolts arp. Say you want 100ft lb's total. You want to do it in three steps. First step, one proper sequence at 40 ft lb's. Second step, one more round at 75 ft lb's Final torque at 100 ft lb's in proper sequence. This helps achieves a better sealing of the head gasket,a better more even load across the block,and a more accurate final torque reading. Hmmm thats how I do normal headbolts. But for the ARP bolts arent you supposed to do that but after its "100ft lbs" arent you supposed to loosen and then work you way up to 100lbs again. In order to stretch the headbolts to the right size? You are talking about "Torque to yeild" where you actually stretch the head bolt. Dave and I did this on his spec v when we did the head gasket. It was a pain because they don't give a torque rating. They assume that the bolt will stretch so much when you turn it to a certain degree so you have to torque 70* past 35ftlbs in sequence and then another 70* in sequence.
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Post by blackGSX2g on Oct 28, 2005 17:28:55 GMT -5
Area 51 sterile..... If we fart it's all over with..... ;D haha, J/J Yea, shit was nuts...we all had bio-hazard suits to prevent that problem ;D
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Post by 93beast on Nov 21, 2005 21:14:42 GMT -5
i dont know i have been working on cars for a long time and never heard of it
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Post by dsmloki on Nov 22, 2005 0:39:05 GMT -5
torque to yield they don't just guess with, take a metallurgy class and learn all about atsme specs, any metal of a certain type with stretch only a certain amount when put under a set load, so if the load is a constant, (torque to 35ft/lbs, then 70* would exert a certain load, which would be constant) which makes the amount of stretching constant. that is all assuming you do everything as required as per atsme specs at room temperature(approx 72*)
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