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Post by SPOOLD on Nov 14, 2007 22:07:30 GMT -5
i was kind of thinking the same thing. basically just a running light switch that turns the headlights on and of course the brake light switch. hardest thing to make it "street legal" would be flashers and such for turn signals cuz otherwise you could completely strip the steering column and just have a quick little ignition switch/push button. oh and i just thought of another little minor thing to shave weight would be to make sure you remove all of the driver's side headlight headlight gear and leave just the metal cover. i've seen a couple guys just run a set of small high wattage foglights behind the front clear lenses for headlights to get around also.
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Post by pinder91 on Nov 14, 2007 22:58:32 GMT -5
you could completely strip the steering column and just have a quick little ignition switch/push button. According to NHRA Gen. Regs. 8:5 IGNITION All cars must be self-starting. Rollers and/or pushbutton starts prohibited. I thought it would be cool to have a push button starter in place of the cigarette lighter, but that got shot down when I read through the rules.
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 15, 2007 11:31:17 GMT -5
(i didn't rear all 5 pages) fast forward->->-> would it be easier to pull all wiring and only install what you need to make it "legal" at the track... like parking lights for an example. if your doing a EMS do an open loom (like TJ's) and just wire to each piece and keep it clean, known, and straight to the point... food for the belly... R Well, the entire harness is continuous, even through the firewall. And I definitely don't want to remove the entire thing. I figured the best method for removing what I dont need is starting with the component and running "down the line" and removing all of the wiring one-by-one. It's actually not as tedious as it looks. Once I get everything eliminated, and I can see what's left, I might remove it all, and fab up my own custom wiring harness. Something similar to a Painless. i was kind of thinking the same thing. basically just a running light switch that turns the headlights on and of course the brake light switch. hardest thing to make it "street legal" would be flashers and such for turn signals cuz otherwise you could completely strip the steering column and just have a quick little ignition switch/push button. oh and i just thought of another little minor thing to shave weight would be to make sure you remove all of the driver's side headlight headlight gear and leave just the metal cover. i've seen a couple guys just run a set of small high wattage foglights behind the front clear lenses for headlights to get around also. I'm not worried about making this even remotely street legal. I'm going to need all the weight reduction I can get. The entire headlight assemblies are long gone. The driver's side headlight lid will be permanently fixed to the hood, so it will lift as the hood does. The fuel cell will be in that headlight area. And the passenger side one will be replaced with a velocity stack. The steering column is also already stripped. No more wires, no more keyed ignition, no more heavy ass, dished, steel steering wheel.
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 15, 2007 11:33:47 GMT -5
you could completely strip the steering column and just have a quick little ignition switch/push button. According to NHRA Gen. Regs. 8:5 IGNITION All cars must be self-starting. Rollers and/or pushbutton starts prohibited. I thought it would be cool to have a push button starter in place of the cigarette lighter, but that got shot down when I read through the rules. I think you transposed that, Pinder. Check the rules again. It says "rollers and/or push starts prohibited". Self-starting means it has to be equipped with it's own electric starter. Sprint cars and other direct drive cars have no starter, and they must be pushed by another vehicle to be started. This is what the NHRA is prohibiting. An electric push-button is completely legal. They just don't want guys pulling their starters off and running without them. I'll be running one of these:
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 19, 2007 11:13:23 GMT -5
Driveshaft loop installed. I had to clock it at an angle to get it within 6 inches of the center of the u-joint. This also helped with ground clearance. Stay tuned. Cage pics will be the next update.
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Post by BMan on Nov 19, 2007 12:53:57 GMT -5
Is that plywood covering the cutout of the trunk?
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Post by badev0 on Nov 19, 2007 12:54:35 GMT -5
Looking good!
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Post by laser92 on Nov 19, 2007 14:18:38 GMT -5
Is that plywood covering the cutout of the trunk? that is the front.
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 19, 2007 14:29:40 GMT -5
Is that plywood covering the cutout of the trunk? No. The car is on a lift in this picture. The engine and tranny are removed, so what you're seeing is the plywood wall (or ceiling) of John's garage through the engine bay.
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Post by 95redtsiawd on Nov 21, 2007 23:16:54 GMT -5
Paul, hope you don't mind me posting some updates to your log ;D.... Got some work done on the cage, time has been kinda short around the holidays, but I managed to get the main hoop all designed, measured, and marked out, just need to bend it up. I also got a couple of the floor plates prepped and tacked in. Pics for your enjoyment..... More after thanksgiving.....
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 22, 2007 10:37:13 GMT -5
That's awesome! Thanks for the update, John.
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Post by sbstar on Nov 26, 2007 8:59:41 GMT -5
Hey Paul, I was running through ways to make the 14b even quicker and something came to mind that I have no seen on a 14b powered car yet and something I know you have some knowledge about. What about using a line-lock or, even just the e-brake method of launching the car so you can build some boost off the line? Is there a reason no one else has done this?
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 26, 2007 10:14:45 GMT -5
Hey Shane, I haven't spoken to anyone else who has a fast 14b car (aside from talking with Leon R. about tires), so I'm not sure what anyone else is doing for launching. I did plan on using either a linelock or a CNC staging brake. I'll probably go with the staging brake. I already removed the e-brake assembly from the interior, but I still need to pull apart the hubs and remove the cables.
This is kinda all new to me. I've never had a lightweight 1G before, and I've never race on 4 slicks, and I've never raced on the 14b either. I'm not sure how the car is going to respond and feel. I only have guesses and expectations as of right now. But I'm sure some sort of linelock/hand brake will be beneficial for the holeshot.
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Post by SPOOLD on Nov 26, 2007 11:58:33 GMT -5
i'll go ahead and throw out all my various crazy 14b ideas. hopefully any of this might help or give you some ideas.
-ported compressor cover, ported and tapered inlet, hogged out outlet port matched for j-pipe
-external wastegate, better than fighting the stock wastegate
-7cm exhaust housing? this could also go farther as to a better flowing manifold and o2 setup. longer even runners. wether it be a 7cm housing/fp cast mani setup or even possibly going to a small-medium t3 housing like a bullseye bolt-on and a tubular t3 mani similar to what you're running on the 2g
-also anti-lag isnt too uncrazy of an idea possibly
those are a few of the big ones. i'm sure you know the key is getting out of the hole as fast as possible since it wont pull like mad farther down.
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Post by 95redtsiawd on Nov 27, 2007 8:53:02 GMT -5
Cage is coming along slowly, so many things going on this time of year, but I promised updates so here they are. Main hoop is in, well set in anyways, gonna replace the 1/8" plate under the main hoop with 1/4". The rules say 1/8" minimum, but I think alot of those rules assume it's going into a 1950-70's car that has a whole lot more steel already in it. After placing the hoop and pressing down, I don't like how that 1/8" flexes, and since it's the main support, I wanna err on the side of safety. I think 1/8" will still be ok for the rest of the tie points. More pics.... I need a bigger garage, 20' pipe + 35' garage = not much extra space :-( I'm sure glad I made a longer bar for this....Moly bends a little harder than mild steel..... Finished hoop in place, except for new floor plates. Turned out very nice I think.... More updates in a few days.......
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