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Post by meteorgreya4 on Nov 21, 2011 12:48:59 GMT -5
Howdy,
Having trouble with the manual trans in my 91' Talon. If I start the car with the clutch in and not in gear, I cannot get it into gear. If I start the car in gear, with the clutch in, it wants to take off. Thoughts?
If it's simple, I would rather not pull the trans. I believe there's a master clutch cylinder on the car and wondering if that is the culprit...?
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Post by sourcelx on Nov 21, 2011 14:44:31 GMT -5
I'd say its definetly clutch assembly or clutch master/slave related. Stock clutch? How does it feel? And welcome. Things are kinda slow here but people are around .
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 21, 2011 16:05:11 GMT -5
Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging when you press the pedal. It's probably a hydraulic issue (slave or master).
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Post by laser92 on Nov 21, 2011 17:29:52 GMT -5
I had th same problem on my 91 awd. After replacing the slave, and the master, and shimming the pivot ball (PITA) it ended up being out of adjustment at the pedal assembly. I'd recommend starting here, since it's free. It's a threaded rod that pushed the master. I remember seing a pretty good "how to video" from Jack's transmission that could prob. still be found on youtube. EDIT: not the video I saw, but still covers it. Even though he's using a 2g pedal assembly for demonstraion purposes, it's the same. You're looking to set the pedal assembly up for the MOST travel possible... www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Nov 23, 2011 15:05:13 GMT -5
Awesome info! Thanks a million. I will give it a shot tonight.
Happy Thanksgiving All! ;D
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Nov 24, 2011 16:38:30 GMT -5
Hey All,
I looked at the threaded rod and it appears it is adjusted as far out of the bracket as possible and yet still engaged. That said and with my understanding of the mechanism, I should loosen the jam nut and then thread the rod away from the firewall thus allowing more fluid to enter the master cylinder... correct?
This should, in theory, pull the piston back further in the cylinder and allow more fluid to push through the line and increase the slave cylinders travel. I hope anyway...
The video explains how to adjust the cylinders threaded rod to allow the slave cylinder to automatically adjust and not seat on the bleeder valve, but does this also allow the most travel in the cylinder?
One thing that I didn't mention previously; The clutch is 'very' stiff when depressing the pedal. I have a 92' Talon and it's pedel is smooth and very easy to push. Could this be attributed to a bad master or slave actuator?
Thanks again and sorry for so many questions
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Nov 28, 2011 12:11:10 GMT -5
No luck... I adjusted it both in & out and made no difference. I'm thinking the slave cylinder is toast and the reason it pushes sooooo hard. Any thoughts before I spend the cash?
Thanks in advance!
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Post by sorryguessul on Nov 28, 2011 22:51:54 GMT -5
If you have a heavy clutch and your car has an aftermarket replacement slave cylinder it'll eventually blow out the seals on it. I went through 3 slave cylinders from O'Reilly's within a 3 month period because of my ACT2600 clutch.
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Nov 29, 2011 9:16:41 GMT -5
Ahh... I see. It does still move the slave cylinder, but I think I will replace it and see what happens.
Thanks for all the help.
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Post by sorryguessul on Nov 29, 2011 13:35:33 GMT -5
Last time that my SS went out it would still move if I pressed the clutch but it wouldn't produce enough force to engage/disengage the clutch properly when attached to the car. If you need to get the car on the road ASAP I would say just go to O'reillys and get a $20 pos slave cylinder from them and see if that fixes it temporarily and then order an OEM Mitsu slave cylinder (they're about $80 from JNZ.)
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Nov 30, 2011 11:39:20 GMT -5
Again, great info! Thanks and I'll give that a shot.
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Dec 1, 2011 11:55:16 GMT -5
Sorry to say that changing out the slave cylinder did not work. I don't feel the Master cylinder is bad, because it's not leaking and usually the sign. I unthreaded the master cylinder from the bracket as far as it will go and it does nothing. I'm going to try threading it into the bracket (away from the firewall) in hopes that, that will do something. I know it will shorten the throw/stroke of the pedal (move it toward the firewall) but I'm not sure what else to try... Anyone know what else it could be?
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Dec 1, 2011 12:00:27 GMT -5
Someone mentioned that they 'shimmed the ball'. What is that exactly?
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Post by laser92 on Dec 1, 2011 18:57:23 GMT -5
shimming the pivot ball is removing the trans, and then removing the clutch fork, and putting a washer behind the ball that the fork pivots on. This will give you more movement. I would doubt that this is the issue, since it worked before and now it doesn't though. Mine was a new trans being put in a car that used to be an auto, so I tried everything.
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Post by meteorgreya4 on Jan 4, 2012 12:59:57 GMT -5
So... does anyone have a video of how to swap a 1g manual trans?
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