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Post by Green92gsx on Aug 22, 2009 15:17:07 GMT -5
Well the knock count cut in half when you ran 50/50 pump/race gas so thats good. Next time run the car well past the low full light and drain the tank dry. You'll be amazed how fuel extra gas comes out. Then put in the 5gal race fuel and test. I'd bet the at the shootout it was more a 75/25 pump/race gas mix so it might not have been a good test.
Is this a 14b car where talking about? Do you still have the honeycombs in the 2g mass and is the top screw backed out flush or not?
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Post by doggietom on Aug 22, 2009 15:43:20 GMT -5
To Green92gsx i am having a similar problem what would this do, " Do you still have the honeycombs in the 2g mass and is the top screw backed out flush or not?"
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Post by Green92gsx on Aug 23, 2009 14:00:50 GMT -5
It would lean the car out and puts you into higher timing map that could induce knock. Setting base timing to zero is another thing to try to stop phantom knock.
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 24, 2009 16:19:00 GMT -5
Honeycombs are untouched and the screw (the calibration screw I'm assuming you're talking about) is untouched and still covered with silicon.
"With the silicone out of the way you can see the slots for a screw driver. Turn the screw out (counter clockwise) to make the car run leaner.
Turn in (clockwise) to richen."
Straight from RRE. Should I just leave it untouched?
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 27, 2009 18:37:23 GMT -5
Checked the timing with my logger and a light and it hovers between 8-10 at idle of 750 rpm which I looked at the vfaq and seems spot on. I don't know what else it could be... I'm lost. Only other thing I haven't checked it the possiblity of phatom knock considering that my knock was cut in half with race gas. No midnight madness for me
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Post by Green92gsx on Aug 27, 2009 19:03:12 GMT -5
Dude make sure you disconnect the logger first at the fuse box and ground the diagnostic pin thingie above the battery on the firewall. Then with all the accessories off like,fans,lights ect. Shoot the light and check. I'll bet your base timing is way far advanced. Set it right to 5* at 750 rpm + or - 100 rpm with all of the above checked off.
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Post by Green92gsx on Aug 27, 2009 19:15:05 GMT -5
Also, when you set it unground the plug on the fire wall, re-ground it and doublecheck to be positive.
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 27, 2009 21:52:26 GMT -5
Yeah I grounded out that pin behind the battery, with the cover on it. I followed the vfaq step by step. I didn't do anything with the diagnostic port though. I have the cable plugged in at the diag port but had it disconnected from my logger. I shot the light at the pulley from right in front of the shock tower, that should be a clear enough read right (concerning the angle that the light is hitting the pulley)? It was weird, the first time I grounded out that plug it would hold idle and I could check the idle... after I disconnected it and checked the timing it was fine. When I would ground it out for a second time and third etc. it wouldn't hold an idle at all. So I figured 8-10ish was good enough.
I went out and did a log of after I checked everything and I can just see it everytime; my timing goes haywire when I get knock. This is so damn frustrating.
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Post by wishihadatalon on Aug 27, 2009 23:03:04 GMT -5
When is it knocking Dan? Like what rpm and right when you get into boost? Also I would try to set your base timing at about 5 degrees.
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 28, 2009 2:51:48 GMT -5
It's knocking pretty much everytime above 5k rpm and after I'm on it for a while (kinda like heatsoak). And on heavy load in 5th gear, so lower rpm in 5th gear on full throttle. I'll adjust my timing tomorrow closer to 5 degrees and see what happens...
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Post by wishihadatalon on Aug 28, 2009 8:03:17 GMT -5
It's knocking pretty much everytime above 5k rpm and after I'm on it for a while (kinda like heatsoak). And on heavy load in 5th gear, so lower rpm in 5th gear on full throttle. I'll adjust my timing tomorrow closer to 5 degrees and see what happens... Heat soak is probably the issue. Have you cleaned out your intercooler at all? Take it out and pour some gasoline inside of it, hold your hands over the ends, shake it, and watch the crap come out. Do you have the factory ducting for the sidemount? What are your timing values at when you start to knock at around 5k?
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 28, 2009 13:47:57 GMT -5
I haven't cleaned it out or anything. Do you remember looking in my engine bay at the shootout, when we pulled off my intake to do the BLT and how had a thick film of oil all in the intake (from the VC breather routing back to the intake). I think after having that connected for so long that it's affecting the efficiency of my intercooler? Does that sound possible?
Looking at my timing, it seems to be at 11 degrees pretty much every time around 5k rpm. My knock is pretty much the inverse graph of my timing. The lower my timing the higher my knock.
RPM KNCK TIM 5500 9 13 6000 30 11 6500 42 9 7000 41 11
A broad rpm range but it gets the point across. I think I'm gonna go take my intercooler off and clean it.
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Post by wishihadatalon on Aug 28, 2009 14:19:42 GMT -5
I haven't cleaned it out or anything. Do you remember looking in my engine bay at the shootout, when we pulled off my intake to do the BLT and how had a thick film of oil all in the intake (from the VC breather routing back to the intake). I think after having that connected for so long that it's affecting the efficiency of my intercooler? Does that sound possible? Looking at my timing, it seems to be at 11 degrees pretty much every time around 5k rpm. My knock is pretty much the inverse graph of my timing. The lower my timing the higher my knock. RPM KNCK TIM 5500 9 13 6000 30 11 6500 42 9 7000 41 11 A broad rpm range but it gets the point across. I think I'm gonna go take my intercooler off and clean it. That is because your timing will be pulled when you get knock. On a 1g with a clean pull with your mods, I would bet that you should be seeing 21-22 degrees of ignition timing out of the stock ecu. That oily film is really hurting you. I would get a cheap small fuel filter from autozone or whatever parts store, put it inline for the breather line that goes to the intake, and then install this 1 way check valve that I have for you. It also wouldn't be that bad of an idea to clean your stock hoses up on the inside. I am thinking that a combo of high intake temps, oil vapors in the intake charge, and high base timing are giving you all of your problems. A boost leak test checked out great so you should be fine there.
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 28, 2009 14:49:16 GMT -5
Jeff, from KeyDiver, set my ignition timing at WOT to 18*. When I logged running the race gas I had zero knock with 17 degrees of timing until about 6300 rpm and timing leveled at 18 degrees and knock peaked at 20 around 6900 rpm.
I have a screen filter in that line right but it's obviously not doing anything. When school starts up I'm gonna make a nice aluminum catch can, but in the meantime I'll see if I can score a cheap fuel filter. Time to investigate how hard it'll be to take my intercooler and pipes off.
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Post by dsmrook on Aug 28, 2009 16:22:04 GMT -5
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