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Post by pinder91 on Nov 7, 2007 21:07:16 GMT -5
I'd vote for 9.0-1 Kiggly racing valve springs and retainers Felpro or mitu mls no- oring A1 head studs The 1600's can be a bit herky jerky at light part throttle. If you go aem it should be able to dial out no problem. It seems like everyone is voting higher compression. Why do you suggest not getting the o-ring job? Most everything else I've read about high boost coming into play suggests the o-rings.
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Post by dizzum_D on Nov 7, 2007 21:52:55 GMT -5
You are for sure going to want to oring something. Whether it be the block or head, you will want to oring something to be sure that you don't push anything. I push coolant when I go over 32psi, and I have standard arps and a mitsu mls gasket, copper sprayed with mirror perfect finishes. With orings and either a composite or mls gasket, and new arp's l-19 studs you will have no problem holding 40+ psi without pushing a drop.
The kiggly springs if your not familiar are beehive type springs and are more so common in v8's, and were recently introduced for the 4g.
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Post by dizzum_D on Nov 7, 2007 21:59:12 GMT -5
Shearer makes great products don't get me wrong but he's an asshole and I don't think I'd ever buy anything from him.
I've met Ron and spoke with Tim from punishment and Tim is just an all around nice guy and made things right with me when I had the problems with my older manifold. In fact I still have the old one just sitting around he never asked for it back. Ron has called Tim a doosh for no reason before and the link boards.
I also am eager to see what JMF will come out with, I am waiting for their scatter shield.
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Post by CheapTalon on Nov 7, 2007 23:07:35 GMT -5
+1 I think I might go SLS for the Colt. Project seems to coming along Pinder. If you ever need a hand just let me know.
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Post by pinder91 on Nov 7, 2007 23:15:24 GMT -5
+1 I think I might go SLS for the Colt. Project seems to coming along Pinder. If you ever need a hand just let me know. Thanks! I know once this project really starts moving I'm going to be calling you and TJ daily!! LOL
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Post by wishihadatalon on Nov 8, 2007 8:52:39 GMT -5
make it in the summer and I will be willing to drive out there
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Post by 95redtsiawd on Nov 8, 2007 9:34:07 GMT -5
Pinder, looks like everything is going great. Just to let you know, the 1 5/8" die is due to arrive on Monday for the bender. I still need to get another blade for the bandsaw and grab some more tig rods and I'll be all set for some rage in the cage
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 8, 2007 11:28:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Paul. I've got one box of MS-2076P, and a double pack of CB-1120AL. What would you suggest I get instead? So for fuel I'm assuming I'll need bigger than 1000cc injectors. I've seen many recommendations for 1150cc, and a couple for 1600cc. I'm still not sure on pumps. I'm keeping the factory tank, and I'd like to run parallel as well. I think Jake Montgomery is still running the twin 255's in-tank, but I could see that being a problem if more fuel is needed. Although, I'm hoping I won't have to use more fuel that that. Plus there's the E-85 dilemma. A Bosch 044 sounds good, but I don't think there's room to fit 2 in the tank. Those main bearings (MS-2076P) are fine to use, but ditch those rod bearings (CB-1120AL). They are no longer a tri-metal bearing like they used to be. The 'AL' bearings are aluminum bi-metal bearings. Their inner load carrying surface is completely different and they have a thicker layer of babbitt, which is not good for a performance bearing. The AL bearings just aren't as good at load carrying, and they lack fatigue strength that tri-metal bearings offer. (I had an engine bearing seminar that I attended about two years ago, and I retained most of what I learned.) Like Dan mentioned, pick up some ACL rod bearings to replace those M77's. For injectors, I would recommend 1150's for gasoline. If you truly want to run it on E85, then you'll need the 1600's. Four 1150's just wont be close to enough. The same applies to fuel pumps. Two in-line 255's ran in parallel will be enough to support the power needed for a 9-second pass on gasoline, but I don't think they will flow enough for E85. FYI: The in-line 255's experience less pressure drop than the in-tank 255's, so at high boost, they are flowing significantly more fuel. Which ever pumps you end up with, I would recommend that you use in-line pumps, and fab up a pick-up to use with your OE fuel tank.
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 8, 2007 11:54:52 GMT -5
Why do you suggest not getting the o-ring job? Most everything else I've read about high boost coming into play suggests the o-rings. All of the Magnus engines now come with no o-ring and a Felpro MLS. Rau even used to use a Mitsu MLS and a copper o-ring in the head, and Marco finally convinced him that his combination was better. Back in '04, Marco tested the Felpro MLS on a 4G63 with a T78 turbo at 67 PSI, and had zero leakage. It seems that in any case, someone out there has had every combination work great at one point or another. And because of that, there will always be many opinions on what is best. FFWD only uses SCE copper HG's, Magnus only uses Felpro MLS HG's, Buschur o-rings the head, and Enginetecs o-rings the block. There are many combinations that will work great when prepped correctly, so the choice is yours. I also agree that you will definitely need tool steel head studs. Either A1's or L19's - they are the same product so just get whichever is cheaper or more readily available. There's a good thread on NABR regarding o-ringing and head gaskets that I'd love to share with you - I just don't want to risk loosing my account for copying info. Pinder, if you're at John's when I'm there, maybe we can jump on the computer and I'll show you that thread.
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Post by wishihadatalon on Nov 8, 2007 12:05:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Paul. I've got one box of MS-2076P, and a double pack of CB-1120AL. What would you suggest I get instead? So for fuel I'm assuming I'll need bigger than 1000cc injectors. I've seen many recommendations for 1150cc, and a couple for 1600cc. I'm still not sure on pumps. I'm keeping the factory tank, and I'd like to run parallel as well. I think Jake Montgomery is still running the twin 255's in-tank, but I could see that being a problem if more fuel is needed. Although, I'm hoping I won't have to use more fuel that that. Plus there's the E-85 dilemma. A Bosch 044 sounds good, but I don't think there's room to fit 2 in the tank. Those main bearings (MS-2076P) are fine to use, but ditch those rod bearings (CB-1120AL). They are no longer a tri-metal bearing like they used to be. The 'AL' bearings are aluminum bi-metal bearings. Their inner load carrying surface is completely different and they have a thicker layer of babbitt, which is not good for a performance bearing. The AL bearings just aren't as good at load carrying, and they lack fatigue strength that tri-metal bearings offer. (I had an engine bearing seminar that I attended about two years ago, and I retained most of what I learned.) Like Dan mentioned, pick up some ACL rod bearings to replace those M77's. For injectors, I would recommend 1150's for gasoline. If you truly want to run it on E85, then you'll need the 1600's. Four 1150's just wont be close to enough. The same applies to fuel pumps. Two in-line 255's ran in parallel will be enough to support the power needed for a 9-second pass on gasoline, but I don't think they will flow enough for E85. FYI: The in-line 255's experience less pressure drop than the in-tank 255's, so at high boost, they are flowing significantly more fuel. Which ever pumps you end up with, I would recommend that you use in-line pumps, and fab up a pick-up to use with your OE fuel tank. According to AMS' fuel pump test, the intank pumps have a pressure relief valve at a certain fuel pressure, while the inline pumps have no such relief.
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 8, 2007 12:25:48 GMT -5
Shearer makes great products don't get me wrong but he's an asshole and I don't think I'd ever buy anything from him. What do you expect? He's been around the block a few times, and his patience died with his youth. Ron is no more of an asshole than Jon Ripple, but they both are brilliant and offer a great, proven product, so there's no good reason not to buy from them. Also, that new JM Fab race manifold looks like it could be promising. I do like the larger plenum, but I think that it needs to extend in more directings than just 'up'. I'd be interested to see test results from it. You could also go completely baller status and go with ITB's (individual throttle bodys) from a Busa or an FJR1300. It will cause much less turbulance and less loss of air density compared to a single TB before the manifold. And don't forget about the Q45. It seems to be more proven (for high boost) than alot of the Mustang TB's out there.
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Post by 99gst_racer on Nov 8, 2007 12:32:21 GMT -5
According to AMS' fuel pump test, the intank pumps have a pressure relief valve at a certain fuel pressure, while the inline pumps have no such relief. Right, and that relief is not good for high-boost applications. IIRC, Kiggly rigged an in-tank Wally relief to not open. This pressure relief is also why an OE EVO8 pump will flow ZERO at boost pressures of 35+ PSI.
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Post by pinder91 on Nov 8, 2007 13:50:49 GMT -5
I think I'm going to ditch the Clevite's all together and grab a complete set of ACL's then. I'm anal about mixing and matching. I'd feel better know all my bearings are from the same manufacturer.
I guess I have some more reading to do on fuel. I don't necessarily plan to soley run E-85 since I don't know how gas prices will be by the time the car is actually running, nor how much I will actually street drive the car. But I'm thinking the mind set of "better safe than sorry".
I figured with AEM EMS dialing in the 1600's won't be too bad. From what I've skimmed over on the link thread, it looks as though parallel is the way to go. I've just got to figure out how to get a pair of 044's in the tank. It also seems that, at least on 1g's, the stock return line is adequate for the fuel I want to be pushing.
I've almost got everything pulled from the engine bay, so I should be ready to load the car on a trailer to get to John's soon. I've got to get in touch with him and Paul about it though.
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Post by pinder91 on Nov 8, 2007 14:45:29 GMT -5
I was just thinking of going with a 255 in-tank and an 044 in-line (like Dan is running) for now. If I need more fuel later, I'll pull the 255 and replace it with another 044.
This is all assuming I can't figure out how to get 2 044's in-tank.
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Post by Green92gsx on Nov 9, 2007 21:24:06 GMT -5
I'd vote for 9.0-1 Kiggly racing valve springs and retainers Felpro or mitu mls no- oring A1 head studs The 1600's can be a bit herky jerky at light part throttle. If you go aem it should be able to dial out no problem. It seems like everyone is voting higher compression. Why do you suggest not getting the o-ring job? Most everything else I've read about high boost coming into play suggests the o-rings. I've just seen over the years alot of people not having good luck with o-ringed heads. From pushing coolant frequently to blowing alot of head gaskets. It could just be a coincidence though. The machining depth and size of o-ring is the make or break factor. If done wrong the o-ring actually will help the head lift from the block easier. Not helping the seal at all. With my setup I'm more worried about the arp head studs than having the mitu mls with no o-ring at the boost levels I'm at.
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