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Post by Green92gsx on May 29, 2007 19:47:22 GMT -5
If the bov has a top and bottom port you can run a stop leak kit from Dejan called 1g BOV (Air Bypass Valve) Leak Stop Kit. It will stop leaking but will surge like hell under part throttle. I run a similer set that has best of both worlds. It uses a pressure switch so at 17 psi it sends pressure to the top port to stop leak it,but any psi under 17 keeps it leaking to prevent unwanted part throttle surge. That same switch triggers my secondary inline pump at the same time. ;D
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Post by Ecl1psE5 on May 29, 2007 22:25:40 GMT -5
If the bov has a top and bottom port you can run a stop leak kit from Dejan called 1g BOV (Air Bypass Valve) Leak Stop Kit. It will stop leaking but will surge like hell under part throttle. I run a similar set that has best of both worlds. It uses a pressure switch so at 17 psi it sends pressure to the top port to stop leak it,but any psi under 17 keeps it leaking to prevent unwanted part throttle surge. That same switch triggers my secondary inline pump at the same time. ;D Thanks, i'll check into that. Only thing i did notice on the Type R, the bottom port is separate from the lower valve housing. so i guess i'm not sure how it would work with this valve. because everything i have read basically says its an extra pressure source on the bottom of the diaphragm to help open the valve faster. but i like the whole switch thing, now that i could look into.
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Post by Ecl1psE5 on May 29, 2007 22:29:26 GMT -5
OK.. another lengthly BOV update.
Currently, I have adjusted the BOV using Matts Method, and a few tweaking turns. It will open if i Free Rev to middle range, and will not go below my idle point. so that setting is fine. Also, i have removed the 2nd port under the diaphragm because at this point, its doing more harm then good.
Explanation: In short, i don't believe my diaphragm/spring are holding pressure. so when i had that 2nd port hooked up to a pressure source, the 2 pressure sources (the bottom port and the valve) were over powering the top pressure source and spring. it caused it to leak more under full boost.
so after removing that, i fine tuned the spring adjustment screw, and what i currently have is a normal functioning BOV between 10 to 18 psi. its a hard crack and it then stays open, correctly releasing the pressure. anything below 10 psi and it first flutters a bit, then holds open. but i believe its leaking after 18 psi, because the other night with it improperly adjusted, it was holding 20.
Which is where I stand. My idea is to order the stiff spring and hook the bottom port back up. Heres why, i cant adjust the spring screw any tighter with out having it flutter. and if i hook up the 2nd port, then it leaks at full boost, but doesn't have the flutter on the bottom end because both pressure sources open the valve better. So by using the stiff spring i could do to things. first soften the adjustment screw and hook the 2nd port back up. Thus Holding most boost on the top end, and helping with the lower boost flutter.
I could be totally wrong, and more than likely am, but its an idea.
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Post by Ecl1psE5 on Jun 6, 2007 23:19:53 GMT -5
well.. who cares about that BOV, its working now, and more importantly...
Mega Squirt and Cams are installed, tuned, and running great. Me and TJ finished up some loose ends as far as the overall tune goes. Its running really good at 20 psi. so i am very happy, the cams added a lot of top end power, and i cant wait to get launch control hooked up and go to the track.
But lets not forget about the way home from TJ's house. i was on the highway doing 70 when passed a green convertible mustang. he proceeded to get into my lane while i was passing a few cars, and got up next to me. so we both down shift, and the cars behind us get off the highway. so we slow down to like 30 and i was in 2nd gear. i gave the 3 honks and we/ took off. before i was in full boost he had about a car and a half on me, but that didn't last long. once i was in boost i started pulling on him, and caught his back bumper just as he shifted, so i pulled next to him, shifted into 3rd and started pulling away. by the time i was into 4th and he was really falling behind. let off at 120 and had a huge ass smile on my face.
pulled up next to me gave me a thumbs up, and i followed him to the next exit. pulled up next to him at a light, and he asked me how much boost i was running, so i told him. "only around 20." hes like, well damn, that thing is fast, really nice car.
so then i said thanks, and just for kicks i launched it off the light and we went on our ways.
oh ya, and there was a chopped and dropped sentra on 131 that wanted a piece, so i gave him some, a laggy 3rd gear pull that ended up leaving him far far behind. but he gave me the thumbs up, and did the ricer fly by weaving in and out of traffic. lol.
over all, it was a great night. Thank you so much for the tuning help tonight TJ and the countless weekends you have spent on my car. and thank you Matt for the great install and making of the megasquirt. with out both of you, my car would not be as fast as it is,or as fast as it will be. :-)
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Post by Ecl1psE5 on Jun 24, 2007 9:53:43 GMT -5
In true DSM fashion, i'm having some problems. Yesterday i took the car to the car wash, and washed her down for the night. like i normally do, i took a quick drive down the highway to dry off, and noticed a shit load more white/gray smoke then normall. especally on decel. and when i get back into it after decel. this after i did a 3rd to 4th pull at 20psi.
Last weekend at the track i had a problem with my dip stick staying down, and thought it had something to do wtih my breather line not being hooked up into my intake. So i fixed that problem, but i'm still getting blowby through the entire engine. (dipstick, oil cap, smoking though both, ect)
so i decided to do a compression test yesterday, and it didnt turn out so good. #1 - 166 #2 - 164 #3 - 60 #4 - 160
so after that to test if it was a ring problem, i added a cap of oil, let it sit for a bit, then tried again. after this it only raised to 71. so thats where i stand. Car sits under the car port until i get a better idea of whats wrong.
Everything i have read leads to either Head Gasket or rings. the car actually drives fine, doesnt go through colant to my knowlage, and had a shit ton of blowby. i just changed the oil a few days ago, and it wasnt milky just black. so i'm thinking maybe the rings on that piston are shit, or maybe even the piston is gone. who knows. but i have also read that the oil trick usally brings it back to normall for the test. so what else could it be? i'm going to find someone with the tools to do a leak down test and see if i cant pinpoint my issue. and see if i can find someone with a scope so i can look at the cyl walls/rings/piston.
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Post by Starless on Jun 24, 2007 11:26:06 GMT -5
Because of the coolant coming out of the exhaust I am going to lean towards the head gasket. I really just hope that it is the head gasket.
(this is TJ btw)
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Post by XtremeRS2GNT on Jun 24, 2007 19:22:43 GMT -5
damn man that sucks The fact you have a lot of blow by isnt good, somewhat points to craked ring lands on the piston, but since you do have a lot of white smoke out the exhaust, it prob is the head gasket. If it blew bad enough, cylinder pressure can get into the oil galley through the blown gasket, pressurizing the crankcase. I'm willing to bet you had a decent amount of knock going on at 20 psi...without a way to monitor knock, its hard to say. This is why i'd always rather run the stock composite HG, because that will usually be the weakest link to go first with high occurance of knock..Pretty much going to have to pull the head at this point. You should be able to easily see if it was blown by looking at the gasket though..20 psi is pushing it on pump gas, esp when its been this warm out.
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Post by wishihadatalon on Jun 25, 2007 7:22:47 GMT -5
damn man that sucks The fact you have a lot of blow by isnt good, somewhat points to craked ring lands on the piston, but since you do have a lot of white smoke out the exhaust, it prob is the head gasket. If it blew bad enough, cylinder pressure can get into the oil galley through the blown gasket, pressurizing the crankcase. I'm willing to bet you had a decent amount of knock going on at 20 psi...without a way to monitor knock, its hard to say. This is why i'd always rather run the stock composite HG, because that will usually be the weakest link to go first with high occurance of knock..Pretty much going to have to pull the head at this point. You should be able to easily see if it was blown by looking at the gasket though..20 psi is pushing it on pump gas, esp when its been this warm out. The timing might have been a little aggresive for it too. As you said before 8.5:1 is quite a bit different than stock 7.8:1 on 1g's. 20psi should be no real issue for his car if its dialed in, but without a knock sensor we were kind of playing in the dark
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Post by XtremeRS2GNT on Jun 25, 2007 8:30:19 GMT -5
Yeah i checked the timing map on my laptop, and it starts at 15 degrees, and ramps to 19 at about 7000, which isnt overly agressive, but may be a bit too much..hard to say. You dont want to run too much less than 14-15 degrees, as power drops off and EGT's get pretty hot below that..You have to dump soo much fuel to counter act, so it's not very productive to run more boost..It would be better to run less boost, more timing, and leaner A/F's..Unless you run higher octane fuel ofcourse, or water/meth injection.
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Post by wishihadatalon on Jun 25, 2007 9:05:56 GMT -5
Yeah i checked the timing map on my laptop, and it starts at 15 degrees, and ramps to 19 at about 7000, which isnt overly agressive, but may be a bit too much..hard to say. You dont want to run too much less than 14-15 degrees, as power drops off and EGT's get pretty hot below that..You have to dump soo much fuel to counter act, so it's not very productive to run more boost..It would be better to run less boost, more timing, and leaner A/F's..Unless you run higher octane fuel ofcourse, or water/meth injection. Tell that to Mitsu The evo map is really wierd with super rich afrs, decent timing, and 18-19ish psi. They run hard and pretty safe. Also with running rich you use up all of the air ingested into the cylinder but I do agree with you. I wasn't very impressed with the way the evo maps look but I guess you can't complain with what works for some cars.
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Post by XtremeRS2GNT on Jun 25, 2007 9:41:58 GMT -5
I kind of wonder how efficient these 18g's are with the TDO5 compressor covers..I'm thinking they are not that efficient at 20 psi..The TDO6 cover would help greatly i would think..I dont know, it just gets me thinking..
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Post by wishihadatalon on Jun 25, 2007 10:35:26 GMT -5
I kind of wonder how efficient these 18g's are with the TDO5 compressor covers..I'm thinking they are not that efficient at 20 psi..The TDO6 cover would help greatly i would think..I dont know, it just gets me thinking.. Big wheel small cover But he was moving some air. After the cams I had to add a bunch of fuel to get it back to a "safe" afr.
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Post by Ecl1psE5 on Jun 27, 2007 16:32:38 GMT -5
well friday is the big day. TJ and I are going to rip the head off the talon and try to find the damage. i leave for my trip sunday morning, so while i'm gone hes going to get the head checked, cleaned and resurfaced. As long as the damage is only a Head Gasket. If its more, then we have alot more work to do. But everything that is wrong points to a blow head gasket. so we will see friday.
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Post by Green92gsx on Jul 8, 2007 16:24:57 GMT -5
I kind of wonder how efficient these 18g's are with the TDO5 compressor covers..I'm thinking they are not that efficient at 20 psi..The TDO6 cover would help greatly i would think..I dont know, it just gets me thinking.. In threoy with the smaller cover you can achive a higher pressere ratio than with the larger tdo6 cover. But not as efficently. The bigger cover won't achive a higher pr/ratio than the smaller cover but should be more efficent. In real world the 18g don't shine till 25psi anyway and with the large intercoolers we all run it'll make up for any extra heat that the smaller cover makes.
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Post by Ecl1psE5 on Jul 9, 2007 17:26:12 GMT -5
Tj started sunday, and i later joined.. we got the head off, and all striped down. Valves looked good, cyl walls looked smooth, pistons looked ok, and the only thing out of place was the moisture built up between the head and the gasket, and the gasket and the block. Also there were coolant drops in the Cylinder walls and piston tops. So we are pretty sure its the HG that went. Tj droped the head off today to get it checked, pressure tested, resurfaced, hot tanked, all the valves ground, and new seals. It should be done near the end of the week. Then next week we hope to get it all put back together. And we have some oil on the top of the piston right now checking to see if its leaking around the rings.
So lets hope for the best, and hopefully the head is still good and everything is solved by this procedure.
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